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Vegan-Organics - The Basic Principles.

Vegan organic horticulture is a method of growing plants without the use of chemical fertilizers, sprays etc and without using any animal products (except those obtained from humans). It is a system of caring for the soil in a sustainable way to ensure it retains its fertility for future generations. It is a method of growing plants that works in harmony with nature, encouraging a wide diversity of plant and animal life to share the land with us.

This leaflet is a brief guide to the basic principles of vegan organics. A list of suggested reading is given at the end should you want to find more specific information.

The Basic Principles:

1. Wherever possible, do not dig the soil.

There are many reasons for this:

• There are many creatures and organisms living in the soil, helping to create drainage and build up fertility. Digging the soil will kill many of these creatures and break up the natural drainage they have created.
• By digging the soil you will encourage much more rapid breakdown of organic matter. Thus, if you wish to maintain the soil fertility, you will become locked into a vicious circle of having to obtain more organic matter to feed the soil whilst putting in lots of effort through your digging in order to destroy that organic matter.
• Digging the soil exposes it to erosion from rain and wind. It also increases the leaching of nitrogen and other water-soluble nutrients from the soil.
• Digging soil will bring weed seeds to the surface where they will quickly germinate and grow. Thus digging actually increases the need to weed.
• Rather than being healthy exercise, digging is actually a great strain in the back and often leads to damage.

Mulching

If your soil is fairly weed-free, it is possible to simply apply an annual mulch, preferably in late winter or early spring, of some organic matter such as compost. Apply this about 5cm deep all over the ground. If your soil is lacking in humus then you will find that this dressing of organic matter will rapidly be drawn into the soil in the course of the year. Apply another mulch each succeeding year, to make a total depth of about 5cm. As the fertility of the soil is built up, you will notice that less mulch material is required because more is left over from the previous dressing. This method of gardening does require large initial inputs of organic matter - see item 2 below for details of obtaining this.

Mulching weed-infested sites.

Most organic gardeners, when confronted by a heavily weed-infested site, will reach immediately for the fork or spade and spend many hours laboriously digging out as many weeds as they can. Not only is this exceedingly hard work, but it is often far less than successful. Many of the weeds, such as couch grass or thistles, will soon regrow with renewed vigour if even small parts of the roots are left in the ground. There will also usually be an explosion of germination from literally millions of seeds that have been given ideal germination conditions. The newly-dug ground will very soon be covered in weeds again. The alternative, once more, is to mulch. But this time there must be some barrier placed below the mulch to prevent all the weeds from growing through. We have found that cardboard boxes are an ideal barrier to use. They are usually freely available in quantity from local shops etc, will form an excellent barrier for a year or so, in which time most of the persistent weeds will have died, and then will rot down nicely to add their own organic matter to the fertility of the soil. Other materials that can also be used include newspapers (but try to avoid too many with colour printing and do not use colour supplements on land where you intend to grow food) and carpets (but only those made of natural materials such as hessian - avoid foam-backed carpets). It is very important to ensure that you apply a sufficient thickness of barrier mulch, otherwise the more vital weeds such as thistles and docks will push their way through it. A carpet that is not too worn is usually sufficient, cardboard boxes folded flat but not opened out are generally enough, and newspapers about 15 sheets thick are generally enough. Make sure that the edges of boxes, paper or whatever overlap by at least 8cm, otherwise the weeds will soon find their way to the surface. Late winter is the ideal time to mulch weed-infested beds, though it can be done at any time of the year so long as the soil is not dry (as well as helping to retain moisture in the soil, a mulch can also prevent moisture from reaching the soil, so a mulched dry soil will remain dry until there has been sufficient rain to soak the mulch and then penetrate into the soil). It is possible to plant into this mulched bed within three months of mulching. You simply use a trowel to make a hole into the cardboard and then plant into this hole. You may find that some weeds will start to grow out of this planting hole, but these are easily controlled by hand weeding. By using this method, it is actually possible to produce a semi-mature bed from weed-infested land by the middle of the first summer.

No-digging methods.

Once you have applied a good surface mulch to your ground, how do you go about planting and sowing seeds in it? Assuming that the organic matter you have used is fairly fine (such as well- rotted compost) then you just treat this as the surface of your soil, sowing and planting directly into it. If you used a coarser material such as shredded bark or leaf mould, then seed sowing will not be very successful unless using larger seeds such as peas and beans. It is possible to grow potatoes, however, and also to plant out pot- grown plants.

2. Add as much organic matter to the soil as you can.

It is essential, if you want to maintain or increase the natural fertility of the soil, to make sure that you apply sufficient organic matter. Obtaining sufficient organic matter is often the most difficult aspect of organic gardening. There are several potential sources.

Garden compost.

Do not waste a single scrap of organic matter in the garden or the house. Everything that once lived will rot down to provide nutrients for the soil and plants growing in the soil. There is almost never any reason to burn organic matter, the only exceptions to this being when plant matter is diseased and this disease will not or might not be destroyed in the composting process. Canker of apple trees is one example, wood infested with honey fungus is another. If you cannot obtain sufficient organic matter from your garden (and few of us can) then there are plenty of other sources to look for. Many other gardeners, for example, regularly throw out large quantities of garden waste and will be only too happy for you to collect it. Greengrocers will often let you have all the organic matter that they throw out. When activating your compost heap, consider using urine. This is an absolutely free commodity and a very valuable source of fertility that is all too often wasted. If urine does not appeal, then the heap will still rot down of its own accord, though it will take longer. You can speed it up by adding layers of nitrogen-rich material such as nettles, seaweed or young grass mowings, or you can use QR herbal activator, though this can contain honey.

Seaweed.

Much of the natural fertility of the land is washed out to sea. Heavy rain, for example, will wash away soil and nutrients into the rivers and hence to the sea. Most of us regularly use flush toilets and send valuable consignments of fertility on their way to a watery grave. It therefore seems sensible to return some of this fertility to the land by using seaweed. If you live near the coast then you could collect it yourself, otherwise you can buy seaweed meal from most garden centres. Do not use calcified seaweed, see below for the reasons.

Spent hops.

If you live near a brewery then you might be lucky enough to pick up large quantities of this material free. It is an excellent soil conditioner, but if possible use it in conjunction with seaweed meal or compost to improve the mineral content.

Tree leaves.

Another excellent soil conditioner, it is often possible to obtain large quantities of leaves in the autumn from street trees. You might even get the work of collecting them done for you, if you have a sympathetic council or a local road-sweeper who is willing to drop off some sacks to you. Some caution is advised, however. If the leaves come from trees growing close to busy roads then they are likely to contain quite a lot of lead pollution from car exhausts.

Comfrey.

Many organic gardeners grow a bed of comfrey. As well as providing a bulk of material for the compost heap, comfrey can be used as a mulch around plants, or can be placed in trenches before planting potatoes or sowing peas, beans etc. It is possible to harvest top growth several times a year, with the first harvest being available in April. Make sure you leave it in the sun for a few hours to wilt, just to make sure it does not root and become a nuisance. There are special forms of comfrey that do not set seed and so cannot become a problem in the garden. Try to obtain Bocking 14, which is available from many good organic garden suppliers.

Composted garden waste.

Many councils now have recycling centres where garden waste is shredded and then composted. It is then equal in quality to most home-made composts. This material is often then bagged up and sold as a soil conditioner under various commercial names. If you are very lucky, you might find that you will be able to collect the unbagged material free, or for a very small charge, direct from the recycling centre.

Green manures.

There are many plants that can be grown in order to increase the fertility of the soil. Basically you sow the seed and allow the plant to grow for some weeks before cutting it down. Many gardeners will then dig this into the soil, though it is also possible to either let it break down in situ or to remove it and compost it. A number of green manure crops, in particular the peas and beans, will enrich the soil with nitrogen as well as providing organic matter. Green manures have many benefits and can be grown as catch-crops in land that would otherwise be empty. Species to consider include buckwheat, rye, winter tares, clovers, sunflowers and alfalfa.

Peat.

There has been a lot of publicity about peat bogs being destroyed in order to provide peat for composts, mulching etc. Please try to avoid this material if possible.

Calcified seaweed.

Although it is an excellent fertilizer and soil conditioner, especially for acid soils, it is obtained from the temperate ocean equivalent of coral reefs, and is being harvested in an unsustainable way.

Spent mushroom compost.

Just in case you were not aware of it, this material is usually made from animal manures, especially horse manure. It is also heavily polluted with all the chemicals they use in growing mushrooms.

Coir.

This is being used in increasing quantities as a peat replacement. We feel that, although this is an excellent soil conditioner, it should be left in the countries where it grew in order to improve the fertility of their soils.

3. Liquid feeds

Most, if not all, plants benefit from being given concentrated feeds during the growing season. Annuals, especially, benefit because they do not have the established root system of perennials. It is possible to buy vegan liquid feeds or you can make your own. The process is simple. You fill a container, perhaps a dustbin, with plant material, pushing it in tightly to get as much in as possible. You then fill the container with water (and you will be surprised how much water will fit in) and leave it for a week or two. It will by then be very smelly, and you dilute it by perhaps 10 - 1 with water and then pour it on the soil around the plants. Alternatively, you can spray it over the leaves of plants, preferably in the evening or on cloudy days. Some possible materials to use include:-

Seaweed.

You can either collect the seaweed from the beach, or buy liquid seaweed from garden centres. Very rich in a wide range of minerals, it is an excellent general feed.

Comfrey.

A very good source of potassium, it is especially good for potatoes and tomatoes. Nettles. Rich in most minerals, and also providing some nitrogen, it is a good general feed. Weeds. Just using a mixture of garden weeds will provide a good general-purpose feed.

4. Pests and diseases

There are many organic sprays available for treating pests and diseases in plants. In general, we feel that these should be weapons of last resort since they will also kill other creatures, many of which are very beneficial in the garden. If you feel it is essential to use such materials, then you will need to read up on which material is best to use. A read of a good catalogue from an organic supplier will often be sufficient guide. There are also various sprays that can be made from plants growing in the garden. In general, you have to be very knowledgeable before using these, since they are often more harmful to wildlife than the sprays you can buy. If you want to consider alternatives to spraying, then the following are some options:-

Camomile and garlic.

Add a crushed garlic clove and a small handful of camomile flowers to half a litre of water that has just been boiled. Cover and leave to soak for 12 hours. This will make an excellent tonic for plants that will help them to fight pests and diseases.

Mixed and companion planting.

Pests and diseases spread much more easily when lots of plants of the same species are growing together. Try to mix your plants more - you will find that this will also help to produce higher overall yields from your ground. By planting aromatic plants amongst your other plants you will find that the incidence of pests and diseases will fall. Camomile, garlic and many of the Mediterranean herbs are very useful here.

Encourage the wildlife.

There are many creatures who would love to be able to share your garden with you, and who would repay you by eating many of the pests in your garden. Put n a pond, for example, and any frogs who live in it will eat up lots of slugs. Hedgehogs and slow worms will also eat their fair share of slugs and snails. Thrushes are also useful here, though they will also want to share your fruit with you.

Biological control.

There are now many companies who supply parasitic creatures that you can introduce into your garden or greenhouse to control pests. I do have some reluctance to use these, especially if they are not native species. However, these parasites are very specific to the pest they are intended to control, and are therefore much safer in the environment than organic sprays.

Gardening techniques.

There are many little tricks you can use in order to reduce the incidence of pests and diseases. Leaving the main carrot sowing until early June, for example, will reduce the risk of rootfly. Laying rhubarb leaves on the ground will attract slugs to shelter there - it is then a simple matter to collect the slugs up and move them on to wherever you want to move them. Any good book on organic gardening will include many of these techniques. It is very important to try and be as tidy as possible in the garden. Leaving things lying around, for example, will give slugs a place to shelter. Great if you are prepared to check all these places each day - but not if you have just been lazy and are not prepared to check. If you do get a disease in the garden, then try to treat it as soon as possible. Remove the diseased material, burning it if absolutely necessary.

5. Encourage the wildlife

We have already mentioned the value of wildlife in the garden for helping to control pests and diseases. It is also important that we all try and provide suitable conditions for native creatures in order to counteract to some extent all the habitat destruction that is or has taken place in this country. There is a very large area of land taken up by gardens and allotments and these can provide a wonderful habitat for a wide range of creatures. Encouraging wildlife is not about putting out scraps of food each day for the birds, or putting out a bag of peanuts on a bird table. Whilst it might be lovely to watch the tits feeding, what you are actually doing is making the creatures dependant on you for their food. If you should stop feeding, perhaps because you move house, then these creatures will have lost their food source and might die.

It is better to provide a more permanent and natural source of food by planting appropriate plants. There are many fruit-producing trees and shrubs, for example, that will supply food for the birds and various other creatures. Many other plants will provide nectar and pollen for bees and butterflies. A pond will attract a very wide range of insects, amphibians and other creatures. Grow a wildflower meadow and you will be surprised at just how many butterflies and moths will come along to say thank you - and you will also probably be treated to the sight of swallows swooping low over the grass to catch some of the insects that will abound there. Wherever possible, choose native species for wild-life plantings, though there are many non-natives such as buddleia and cotoneasters that would also be very useful.

6. Grow perennial species where possible

The gardening world, especially when it comes to growing food, has become besotted with annual crops. These are much harder work to grow simply because you have to be preparing seed beds, sowing seeds, weeding etc every year if you want your crops. There are plenty of alternative perennial food crops available. These are much easier to grow - once established they will come back of their own accord year after year. They can also be much more productive - especially if grown in mixed plantings of complimentary plants.

Further Reading.

L. Hills. Grow your own Fruit and Vegetables

Excellent basic guide.

M. E. Bruce. Commonsense Compost Making. Faber. 0-571-09990-4

Excellent little booklet dealing with how to make good compost by using herbs.

J. Larkcom. Salads all the Year Round. Hamlyns

Comprehensive guide to temperate salad plants.

L. Woodward. Green manures. Elm Farm

Green manure crops for temperate areas.

P. Allardice A - Z of Companion Planting Cassell, 0-304-34324-2

Well produced and very readable.

This leaflet was produced in conjunction with the Vegan Organic Trust the premire group in the UK promoting the vegan organic method.

Readers Comments

Plants for a Future does not verify the accuracy of reader comments, use at your own risk. In particular Plants For A Future can not take any responsibility for any adverse effects from the use of plants. You should always consult a professional before using plants medicinally.

The Edible Pond and Bog Garden

Ruth Verville Tue Jun 06 21:18:51 2000

Dear Rich Morris: I have started reading inf. on your site.

My question is this, why do you not recommend using pete bogs for enriching the soil?

We have a pond behind our house where yellow lilies and duck weed and other natural grasses grow. It is getting very shallow due to the vegetation, including tree leaves, accumulating over the years. Is it best to let this happen, or to clean out a section so the water can flow better. We have a natural spring that feeds this area? It is full of turtles and frogs, but it is getting too shallow for the geese. I read the inf on The Edible Pond and Bog Garden and wonder if it is possible to do this there, and perhaps cleaning the area would destroy a natural planting area.

This spring I have started to wonder about the purpose of ants in my garden and surrounding yard. I have never heard of not plowing your garden. This concept is very foreign to me. Are ants good for the soil in the garden?

Your site has gotten me to start thinking in a totally different way about my environment. Thanks for your assistance.

Vegan-Organics - The Basic Principles.

paul kosuth Tue Apr 24 01:43:13 2001

What about the use of Timothy grass as a green ground cover? I ask because we have rabbits and get Timothy for them to eat. Some of it get put into their litter boxes so it mixes with the ercycled newspaper pellits (the litter) plus poop and pee. I have put this around some plants in the garden, turining over the fresh grass as it grew tall this spring. The arthworsm seem to proliferate arond these spots (due to the poop). Is the Timothy an ok green cover? Is this something I should expand upon this all?

Vegan-Organics - The Basic Principles.

Mr O'Loan Tue Sep 10 11:26:28 2002

Much mention of the "QR herbal activator" but where can you get it in the UK??

Please help

Vegan Organics

Tue Jun 14 2005

"Rather than being healthy exercise, digging is actually a great strain in the back and often leads to damage." Come on. I'm sure there are good reasons to be a vegan gardener, but you're really straining your credibility here.

Vegan Organics

Deb Bromley Thu Nov 10 2005

NatureGem Non-Toxic Living Promoting awareness of toxins in our food and environment that can cause disease, and providing global access to nutrition information, natural remedies, and alternative health resources.

Vegan Organics

neo Thu Dec 1 2005

Meat is Murder, boy it sure would be nice if everyone would realize that... Vegan fertilizer bags in hope of...ALL AROUND

Vegan Organics

Rich Fri Feb 17 2006

Center for Vegan Organic Education US based group promoting Vegan Organics

Vegan Organics

Dimitris Vournas Fri Apr 28 2006

No one mentions the right timing for jobs like digging out weeds, watering etc. Things change with the correct timing, e.g.weeds don t grow back. A good guidebook could be "The Art of Timing: The Application of Lunar Cycles in Daily Life - Johanna Paungger" although I m sure there could be even better ones.

Vegan Organics

Julie Kresner Tue Jun 13 2006

Why won't the web site open for The Center for Vegan Organic Education - it's a great web site with lots of helpful information and promoting veganics!

Vegan Organics

www.fruitarian.org Fri Jun 16 2006

I fully support vegan organic agroforestry plus enhanced fruitarian biodiversity and have plans to make a good website soon called www.vegetarianfuture.com

Vegan Organics

Mittal Sat Jun 17 2006

I am a little surprised about not using horse manure please could u tell why not? Also Since I am from India and we have lots of cows and we use cow dungs for various purposes including manure. (other purposes : Biogas, cooking food, plastering of walls : only in villages where houses are made of mud excellent I was a bit skeptical of it but after spending two days there it was actually nice.)

Vegan Organics

Roger Hocking Fri Jul 28 2006

Yorkshire Health Organic food suppliers, health food shops, complementary therapists in Yorkshire

Vegan Organics

George S. Davis Tue Aug 15 2006

Hello My parental given name is George S. Davis. My earth given name is Christian Warlock. I’m an Artist, Photographer, Capricorn, Humanist, Computer Nerd, Metamorph and Plant person. It’s the Plant person aspect I’d like to talk about. I grow everything in 2 & 3 liter recycled plastic bottles. That includes tomato’s, egg plants, peppers, sweet corn, watermelons you name it. I call it the Dark Garden method. It’s based on growing plants for the roots, not the vegetation. If your interested I’ve got plenty of pictures. Just email me at GeorgeD909@aol.com. I grow my Sweet corn by sets of 100. They fit nicely in a 3'x6' space. I grow watermelons and cantaloupes in 3 liters bottles called “Monster Pods”. You just wrap the vine around the pods as they grow. The fruits just lay next to the pods. Like I said.....I GOT PICTURES.

Vegan Organics

Theodore Zuckerman Mon Dec 25 2006

Earthly Origin of Commerical Materials includes material on vegan gardening

Vegan Organics

Johnny Jupiter Sun Jan 21 2007

Awfully close to lasagna gardening, using cardboard on top of untilled ground, or even a driveway. Having from 30 inches or more of compost on the cardboard and just add seeds or plants. Great moisture conservator. I have been organic since the 1970's and recently have begun a raw food diet that is helping me tremendously with my health, and a big plus is I am down about 40 pounds and still dropping as my health improves. ...jj

Vegan Organics

Carol Thu Feb 15 2007

Don Bustos in Espanola Valley has changed his farm to vegan organic, and he's very well known, so check him out. I heard he's working with Olga Shifani from the Center for Vegan Organic Education, so maybe that web site will start working again since she's surfaced again after a few years off the map. Let's hope so!

Santa Cruz Farms - vegan organic Don Bustos Farm - it's all vegan organic and he's working with Olga from CVOE.

Vegan Organics

Harry Hart Fri Mar 2 2007

Global Eco at: Bothy Hall Gardens, Rougham, Bury St Edmunds, IP30 9LZ 26 February 2007 Three Pages THE CARBON SOLUTION Dear Vegan Organics, Understanding and pioneering a worthwhile future. A unique arrangement of natural functions, with a little help from mankind, can take the surplus carbon from the air and make it into world resources – into all we need for everyone. Using the fastest forms of plantlife, fertilised by sea nutrients, on a continuously cyclic basis, one can take the annual thirty billion tonnes of manmade emissions out of the atmosphere in a few weeks if we chose to set up and operate a simple system using equipment and processes that already exist in the world. Taking out a further thousand billion tonnes of emissions that have already started from the planet warming up, melting the frozen CO2, thawing the methane sea ice, and the destruction of trees from fires and droughts, well, this will take longer but should be possible if we act soon enough. The alternative is the extinction of life on Earth to become similar to Mars and the other dead planets so it’s well worth doing; assuming that humankind wakes up and starts to convert atmospheric CO2 into organic carbon in time. What do we do with it? As an organic biomass, being 50% carbon plus a very rich mixture of essential elements, or nutrients, it is a very valuable asset. Recognised by the Green Desert Group around 1970 as the means to produce almost unlimited fertilisers for wasteland recovery. A process we called Optimum Path which uses micro algae plantlife, seawater for the nutrients, fresh water for the dilution, air for the carbon and nitrogen (releasing the oxygen), sunlight and photosynthesis to trigger the organic life creation and expansion, plus agitation in shallow ponds to accelerate the rapid growth. In theory, at its absolute maximum one tonne of microalgae (50% carbon) can be cultivated to yield 160 billion tonnes in one week. To scale it right down to less than one percent let’s say 100 million tonnes. So this very modest estimate would take out 50 million tonnes of carbon from a single unit in a single week. The yield is the basic stock for world resources: Foods, trees and plantlife; fuels and biofuels; fertilisers; fibres and fabrics; medicines; a wide range of materials and a variety of chemicals, rubbers and plastics. It follows that any country with seawater and sunlight can make their own resources while helping to save the planet at the same time. As the resources are used and the organic matter decomposes the carbon returns to the air as CO2 and we take it out again as a continual chain of resources. Surplus carbon can be stored in trees (60% carbon) in order to recover and reinstate the massive deserts – most of which were man made over the millennia, thus putting carbon into the air. Dr Richard St Barbe Baker OBE said that the nomads drove their goats across northern Africa and left the Sahara desert behind them. The world’s total deserts and barren land areas must be 70%, and maybe much more, of the land below the ice line. So the 12% that is currently inhabited, and frequently overcrowded with insufficient food, can be expanded to allow plenty of space and resources for all people and any likely increase in total population. The Sahara desert alone is larger than the USA. Global Eco and predecessors have known how to refertilise it for at least 30 years to support maybe two billion people converting sunlight into wealth. In the New Scientist magazine it says that one hour of sunlight received by the planet is equivalent to one year’s worth of manmade fossil fuel energy. And fossil fuels came from the sunlight of aeons ago. From 1972 when Green Deserts Ltd was set up as a largely self-funded charity on the Agnew’s estate in Suffolk the way to recover the world’s wastelands using natural energy technology and organic/biological cultivation has been understood. The centre attracted leading people in ecology, environment, agro-forestry, climate, organics, hydroponics and many other disciplines and has created a massive and continuously increasing input of knowledge, understanding, research and practical experience. This shows how, by working with the planet’s natural functions, the air-carbon can cycle back and forth with a vast expansion of world wealth ad infinitum. The vast treasure trove of information has been chronologically accumulated over thirty years and is in random order. With adequate funding a small team of three to four experienced friends working part time can produce the first research documents and practical information within weeks and have an almost encyclopaedic presentation within a year. More than adequate information and understanding to recover the entire planet with ongoing organic and material enrichment exists ready for coordinating, with a constant flow of supporting and diversifying information coming in. It seems that once one gets into working with our planet’s natural ways, and the basic support-systems that have been there all along, no end of new possibilities become available. For a species that has devastated and almost destroyed the vast potential that our planet has to offer, the time has come for the understanding to begin to bloom into a new world for the people and our planet together. Now here is the crunch point: Where you can help to pioneer a new and worthwhile world with a secure and expanding future. Considering all that we have been through, over all this time, with all the good people with all the learning, projects, actions and activities little wonder we have run out of funds. It seems that we were thirty years ahead. In order to survive the world now needs the understandings that hundreds of like-minded people have been pursuing for decades: Actual, practical, realistic answers to the crises that are beginning to become generally recognised. Possibly the best investment you will ever make for yourself, your family, your friends and our world is to help release the log-jamb of this vital information. Global Eco is an extremely small part of world development and requires miniscule support to complete the missing link. To provide a basic understanding about some aspects of life that all people should have. If this were a war scenario (i.e. a situation we recognised) we would be mobilised by now. If you can help with modest support, with serious funding, with setting up group funding with those you know it may make all the difference between a dire future and a good and worthwhile world. I am not doing this for me, I’m doing it for you (see PS). Surely it is worth the chance? Yours sincerely, Harry Hart PS. I’m 76. I’ve had a fantastic life so far, although I don’t like being old. I’m quite happy to shuffle off to the next dimension; I like new adventures. But for you I see no other options on the horizon and should you ignore this you may write off any worthwhile future for humankind. It’s up to you, miss out and be doomed or make the changes and have a superb life on Earth. So see you. Sooner? Or later? Harry Hart. World-wide documentary cinematographer since 1946. Fellow of The British Interplanetary Society studying life-support systems since 1957. Lay ecologist. Co founder of several eco charities. Global Eco, and predecessors over thirty years, are committed to world wasteland recovery to provide the resources for the future using natural energy, atmospheric carbon and organic cultivation. Non-profit and largely self-funded. Support, grants, donations and sponsorships are welcome. Account: Global Eco, A/C No. 71784845 Sort Code 60-04-16 NatWest Bank, Cornhill, Bury St Edmunds, IP33 1BQ, UK. V: 01359 271019 E: harry@hart.datanet.co.uk PO Box 2000 F: 01359 270723 Bury St Edmunds IP33 1SL

Global-Eco wateland recovery with organic cultivation and natural energy

Vegan Organics

nick watson Fri Apr 6 2007

shimmery timbers article on vegan anti-capitalism / local food sources

Vegan Organics

Mukesh Gupta Wed Jul 11 2007

www.morarkango.com An organisation promoting organic agriculture.

Vegan Organics

Frank Marsland Wed Sep 12 2007

Organic Portal is an Organic Directory for the UK, to enable people to find Organic food, produce and Services in the UK

Organic Portal Organics

Vegan Organics

Lakshminarasimhan Thu Feb 14 2008

I am at present looking for worm farming using leafmaterial and FYM This will help in hard soils by loosing it and increase the bulk density. Your idea of preparing liquid fertiliser is good. But it attracts lot of musqitoes and fruit flies. It is a manace. But still I shall try.

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